Jul 10, 2012

Day 15 (July 7th) - JersDay

"Our culture runs on coffee and gasoline, the first often tasting like the second."
-Edward Abbey.
[Hikers run on snickers and mole skin...]

Start: Church of the Mountain Hostel
Finish: AMC Mohican Outdoor Center
Today: 10.7 mi
Total: 149.4 mi

Off by 7:45 AM, we made her way through the Delaware water gap along the AT. We walked across the River on the I-80 bridge. It's so strange that I drove over this bridge so many times on my way to and from college and now I walk across it as part of a 1000+ mile adventure. As cool as it feels to be doing this it's a bit unnerving having 18 wheeler tractor-trailers flying by within feet of me at 65 miles an hour. Even scarier is the subsequent trembling of the entire bridge as the enormous weight of the truck vibrates the ground. But what is going on in Brian's world? The song "Good Vibrations" by Beach boys.

We finally got out of PA and entered NJ! As Heather and I walked in the early morning we spoke of the rocks of PA with hopes that they diminish in New Jersey (that's the rumor on the trail). We also both agreed that the new state flower of PA is the sharp rock.

We started ascending a 1000 foot climb along the banks of the stream. The sound of the water spilling over falls and swirling in Eddies soothed my mind. By 11 AM, the day had grown noticeably hotter and shortly after it was scorching hot and very humid. Working my body so hard in this weather turned up the sweat factory. Before long, I looked as though I just jumped into a pond with my cloths on.

As I walked up the trail, I finally heard it. The unmistakable sound of a rattlesnake stopped me in my tracks for the third time in my life. About 5 feet away was a big, thick, young (had all its rattles) Timber Rattlesnake. Heather was behind me so she didn't hear it but she did get to see it slither away.

We summited Mount Kittatiny at around 12:30 PM. The name Kittatiny is derived from the Delaware Indians' name for the mountain "Kekachtanin" meaning endless Mountain. I agree!

Just before arriving at Mohican Outdoor Center the skies darkened and the wind kicked up with the sound of thunder in the distance. The storm brought us a bit of rain but it was still so hot we called it a day.

~Daddy Long Legs

Jul 9, 2012

Day 14 (July 6th) - PIRAHNAH

"Never, never, never, never give up."
-Winston Churchill

Start: Motel in Wind Gap, PA
End: Church of the Mountain Hostel
Today: 15.7 mi
Total: 138.7 mi

It's always terribly difficult leaving the safe, climate controlled cocoon of a motel. Even one with holes in its carpet and a hodge podge of mismatched furniture can seem like a haven. Each night before leaving the hotel I have high hopes of getting out by 6 AM or 6:30 AM. Every time I fail miserably! There are so many "chores" to do before leaving. Believe it or not, your feet need the most attention. I spend more time getting my shoes on the Mr. Rogers (including a song he might sing AND a trip to the straw factory). Between putting on moleskin, tending to your blisters, taping on gauze, socks and boots, you've gotten everything but a pedicure (not than anyone else would dare touch your feet).

We were out of the hotel by 7:45 AM and crossed the street to a local diner where Heather stuck at her thumb and I hid behind a telephone pole (not as easy as it sounds with a great big pack). The reason? It's easier for girls to get picked up hitching than guys. A very nice man named Jerry stopped for us after only 5 minutes and drove us 3 miles to the trailhead.

We started up the trail at about 8:15 AM. It immediately began to climb and when we arrived on the ridge a mile later, the sharp rocks of PA greeted us once more. It seems like the northern 150 miles of the trail in PA is littered with these rocks that pinch and chomp your sore, swollen feet like millions of pirahnah. If Eastern PA was ever invaded by a foreign country this line of sharp rocks would serve as Western PA's first line of defense!

While resting our feet we met three really nice hikers: Tex, Miles Supertramp, and Spot. We must've talked for an hour and my hesitation in leaving our trail family in Duncannon evaporated. Most of the people you meet on the trail are incredible. It's almost as if, joined by your common interest, you are quick friends whether you are a doctor, teacher or cashier. You're all the same in a special way.

After (seemingly) many more hours of rock torture, we arrived at the church of the mountain hostel. Along our descent into the Delaware water gap the traffic noise from I-80 grew louder and louder. Although one part of you feels like the cars, traffic and people are intruding into nature, another big part of you is excited because you know your days hike is almost done!

~DADDY LONG LEGS

Day 13 (July 5th) - MOVIN' ON UP DAY

"Nature does not hurry, yet everything is accomplished."
-Lao Tzu

Start: Doyle Hotel
Finish: Wind Gap, PA
Today: 0 mi
Total: 123 mi

We woke and had a nice relaxing morning since we planned on letting Heather's knees rest until about 1 PM. With the morning off we decided to breakfast right at the diner rather than having a couple of candy bars. With pancakes bigger than my head, we knew we made the right decision! While we ate, I looked over the maps and saw we had another five days of tough PA rocks to get through. The doctor encouraged Heather and I to skip this section for now and come back to in the fall to save her knees and possibly the whole trip! I was beginning to agree with the doctor.

The worst part of skipping 100 miles of trail until the fall was that we would be leaving a lot of our trail friends. One such friend, who we met at the end of a long day, was sitting at a picnic table in front of Deerlick shelter. We sat with him and introduced ourselves. This older gentleman, with the long gray beard, had and the slow thoughtful way about him. He told us that he was from Texas and continued, in a stoic manner, that he goes by "Hot Feet." Hmmmm... Seeing our surprised and confused faces he lifted his leg displaying is hot pink crocs and explained "the only ones in my size." Hot Feet is great person and before long we all felt like old friends.

Hopefully we'll see him and some of our other trail friends we've met up north. We took a shuttle from Duncannon to Wind Gap. As we drove 100 miles north in the car the theme songs to the Jeffersons entered my head. "Moving on up..." We arrived at Wind Gap a bit late to make it to the first shelter (especially since the next 15 miles was one of the worst sections of rocks - PA the "best" for last for north-bounders). So we stayed in a cheap motel and gave Heather's knees (and mine) more time to rest!

~DADDY LONG LEGS

Day 12 (July 4th) - ZERO DAY

"Where ever you go, there you are."

Start: Doyle Hotel
Finish: Doyle Hotel
Today: 0 mi
Total: 123 mi

It was nice and cool last night so we (Heather, myself and the bugs) slept well in our room. Out of habit I Woke up with the sun but didn't get out of bed till about 8 AM. Most people revel in these zero days where you can just sit and relax but I was getting antsy. We've come to crave those days where you arrive at camp exhausted but fulfilled.

At 11 AM Heather and I took a walk and nice man on his porch struck up a conversation with us. The people Duncannon have been amazingly nice! We ate pizza for lunch and eventually made her way back to have room for a nap between 1 PM and 3:30 PM. Our bodies are still exhausted.

At 4 PM we got a ride to the grocery store to pick up a few things
(next re-supply in six days). Because of the heat we spent most of the day downstairs in the air-conditioned bar. Before bed I asked Heather if she thought there were ghosts in this 107 year old hotel. That probably wasn't the best thing to talk about before bed but even worse, Heather decided to Google whether it's haunted. Luckily, Google told us that they're only nice ghosts here I hope some of them massage my aching feet while I sleep!

- Daddy Long Legs

Jul 4, 2012

Day 11 (July 3rd) - DOYLE "HOTEL" DAY

"Do or do not, there is no try."
-Yoda

Start: Darlington Shelter
End: Doyle Hotel
Today: 11.3 mi
Total: 123.0 mi
Avg: 11.0 mi/day

It was easier than normal this morning since we didn't use a tent last night (slept in Darlington shelter). We were awake at 6:20 AM and off by 7:20 AM. Being the first person on the trail has it's drawbacks, though. I had the delightful duty of walking through and clearing all the morning webs with my face, ears, hair, eyebrows, arms and legs. Trying to pull them off didn't work as I just transfered them from one appendage to another. Maybe today was the day I should have let Heather go first. The morning consisted mostly of descents but in the early afternoon things turned upwards. One part of the trail rose 600 feet in just half of a mile. This steep mountains staircase was like climbing a 30 story building for each lap of a running track you walked...with a heavy pack, hiking poles, knee braces, and gators.

We were relieved to get the top until we realized it happened. We had been dreading this moment for days. The last 150 miles of Pennsylvania is littered with them. Hikers have come to call this part "Rock-sylvania" and it isn't because of all the rock stars the state has turned out. These small, sharp rocks bite right through your boots, sending flashes of pain to every corner of your foot. My feet contain 25% of the bones in my body...every single one of them hurt! We carefully moved forward. No pain...no Maine!

On the trail you have a lot of time to think. Often during these tough sections my mind wanders but today one interesting thought popped into my head. I felt as though hiking the trail was all some huge psychological experiment and I was the test subject. That up in the sky there was an advance species, dressed in white lab coats, collecting data on my progress and my mental state.

After nearly 10 miles we came to an amazing overlook. We could see so much, including the very town we were trying to get to...what a tease! Finally we grinded into town with both sets of knees hurting but Heather's right knee killing her. She saw a really nice Dr. in town who said to stay off it for a day so I got a room at the Doyle hotel ($25 a night). If I were to tell you that Doyle had character, that would be true. Many layers of filthy, grimy, dirt packed character! This building was built in 1905 as one of the original Anheuser-Busch hotels. Everything sure looked original to me from the rotten floor planks, the ceilings planks you could see through, to the paint chipped walls.

I looked into the mirror and could barely see myself through the permanent fog of the glass so I went down the hall to the SHARED bathroom and took a shower. Despite all this Heather and I were really excited to be here and are having a great time. The owners (an old couple) are hilarious and so nice. What an experience!

~Brian (Daddy Long Legs)

P.S. It may be strange putting bug spray on before going to bed indoors (no screens in windows so bugs share room). Sweet dreams!

Jul 3, 2012

Day 10 (July 2nd) - NEW MAP DAY

"Complaining is like a rocking chair. It gives you something to do but doesn't get you anywhere."

Start: Boiling Springs
End: Darlington Shelter
Today: 14.2 mi
Total: 111.7 mi
Avg: 11.2 mi/day

Fun. The trail giveth and the trail taketh away. Today was no fun. Our $40 hiker priced room was at a beautiful resort so it was difficult to leave. On the way out Heather mentioned the breakfast buffet and threw out the "B" word...bacon. So we stopped for breakfast. I went to the post office to get our maildrop. I had packaged a bunch of supplies and food to be sent to us later. It's really strange mailing yourself a package. What's even more strange was that I had forgotten exactly what I sent myself. It was like giving myself a present and not knowing what it was. Weird! The worst part of the maildrop was that my pack weighed so much more with 5 days worth of food. Finally we were off and on the trail by 11 AM.

We walked through cornfields for much of the day...corn, corn, corn! It's sad to think most of these endless fields of corn will be turned into sugar syrup, helping Americans grow fatter. What happened to growing vegetables with actual nutritional value?

The scorched dirt of the cornfields was like walking on pavement under the blistering sun. My feet ached more than ever from the rock hard dirt. Every square inch of my feet felt bruised. The one positive thing about these fields was the absence of bugs. Must of been too hot even for them.

After 8 miles of that, the land began sloping upwards a bit. We saw Gaia, All Right and Half Left resting on a bench at one of only water sources that hot, thirsty day. Not fun. We ate lunch at the bench with our trail-friends. The most exciting part of the day was putting my old map away and taking out our next map! We are making progress and have officially covered 10% of the journey after our first 10 days (14% of allotted time). We seem a bit behind because you have to start off slower so you don't burn yourself out or seriously injure yourself as many who attempt this do. Only 25% of Thru-Hikers make it.

After the last 2 miles (a climb up the mountain of course) we have arrived at Darlington shelter. Because the shelter has bunks up off the (mouse visiting) floors, we decided not to pitch our tent and try it out. I threw my sleeping pad on the plywood bed and called it a night. Unfortunately, our ultralight sleeping pads made crinkling sound which was echoed by the plywood in the shelter. In the tent the fabric and ground must absorb the annoying sound. Oh well, after a long day of tough hiking nothing can keep me awake!

~Brian (Daddy Long Legs)

Jul 1, 2012

Day 9 (July 1st) - BOILING SPRINGS DAY

"It's always farther than it looks. It's always taller than it looks. And it's always harder than it looks!"
-The 3 Rules of Mountaineering

Start: Campsite somewhere woods
Finish: Boiling Springs, PA
Today: 8.1 mi
Total: 97.5 mi
Avg: 10.8 mi / day

The trail seemed to have a sense of humor today. After we woke and climbed the first mountain we came to the "rock maze" which was a lot of fun! A half-mile later we entered the second maze which was a little more interesting. We followed the white blazes like mice up and over rocks, around boulders, down, between, around, up, left, right...confused! It reminded me of a rock version of the Old Forest from the Lord of the Rings books where the trees and trail shift, drawing you closer and closer to the center of the forest, and the evil there. Finally, we emerged from the maze with no cuts, bruises...or cheese.

I continued north with thoughts of a town day in my head and the words "pizza, shower" being chanted behind (Heather). We escaped the forest and were greeted by 2 miles of scorching hot, bone dry cornfields. I thought that before long I would shrivel up like a raisin so we moved quickly to town.

When I set foot on the pavement the fowl stench of tar and asphalt filled my nose. This smell stood in stark comparison to fresh scent of honeysuckle only minutes before in the forest. Civilization?!

Heather and I considered what to do first: showers, laundry, or pizza. Without much deliberation we settled on the pizza restaurant (despite our smell). I wondered how we smell to clean people (hikers don't notice other hiker smells unless terrible). Was there a section in the pizza place for people like us: smoking, non-smoking, smelly-hikers? Oh well, we're hungry!

After a well-deserved and much enjoyed pizza break we walked a half mile to the hotel ($40 hiker price). After a shower all is right with the world. Your aching muscles are soothed by the clean, cool water and the layers of sweat and dirt vanish...you are a new person!

-Brian (Daddy Long Legs)